You can also have the paint tinted to most any color you desire. I have found that two generous coats of Tile-Clad® makes a great smooth waterproof finish for a darkroom sink. This stuff dries rock hard and is near impervious to most chemicals. This epoxy paint is used in power plants, offshore structures, schools, storage tanks, laboratories, hospitals and marine applications. Tile-Clad® HS Epoxy is a two-part, commercial-grade, epoxy-polyamide coating from Sherwin-Williams. Never again! Way too messy for me, and I hate working with the stuff.Īfter much research I found a suitable coating for my darkroom sink. I built one sink years ago and used fiberglass.
Next comes some form of durable, waterproof coating. Caulking all seams is a must to insure no leaks.
Waterproofing is the next order of business. If nothing moves, creaks, or breaks, I am satisfied that I have a good strong sink. Once complete, I like to climb into the sink and jump up and down. That way it is strong enough to stand up to most anything. Using construction robust enough to sail the ocean. My philosophy of sink building is to build the thing like a boat.
#DARKROOM SINKS CRACK#
Flexing can cause the finish to crack and begin to leak. Robust construction is essential to make sure the sink does not flex. In the previous post titled “NOT THE KITCHEN SINK” we showed what it took to build a large darkroom sink from wood. This is my favorite construction technique and allows me to build a very functional sink to any size required. What most do is build their own sink, typically from wood. Just be forewarned, you are looking at a serious amount of money. You can even have a stainless sink custom fabricated. The question is, to buy, or to build? Certainly, if you have deep pockets, you can buy a commercial stainless steel sink. Once you become a serious darkroom worker you will eventually want a real darkroom sink with running water. JB Posted by JB Harlin in Darkroom, How-To, Photography Note, that the Vinyl does stain when exposed to some chemicals, like Amidol and Pyro, but it has remained flexible and I would not hesitate to recommend it to replace those old, warped wooden Duck Boards.įor more information about Dri-Dek® click HERE. Water easily runs through and under the lattice work, it protects the sink floor, and it provides a soft, yet firm surface on which to work. We installed Dri-Dek® in our sink two years ago and it has been an excellent investment. This is a soft, flexible Vinyl that is perfect for the floor of a darkroom sink. It comes in 12” interlocking squares or rolls. Then I found something even better.ĭri-Dek® is sold as an anti-fatigue flooring for use in commercial work areas such as industrial manufacturing or commercial kitchens. I have constructed and used the usual wooden Duck Boards for years. I have heard of people using plastic lighting grids or plastic rods in the sink, but I have never tired them. These work well, they protect the sink, and allow water to drain, but wood is hard to waterproof and keep from warping. It has been a common practice to construct wooden Duck Boards for the bottom of the darkroom sink. If you build you own darkroom sink or use a commercially available unit, you need something to protect the floor of the sink from scratches and abrasions.
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